POLYMARINE LTD the leading supplier of components, spares and accessories for the manufacture, care and repair of inflatable boats and ribs.The home of Polymarine is the rugged, weather beaten coast of North Wales, where ideal, challenging conditions assist in the development and testing of these outstanding products.

Made in the United Kingdom, exported World Wide. 30 years marine experience, robust product warranties and personal customer service combine to make Polymarine an ever growing, world wide export success. The entire Polymarine range has been exclusively developed to perform under marine conditions with lasting results. The extensive range of quality products includes specialist adhesives, flexible paints, boat care products, moulded rubber parts, fabrics and a comprehensive range of inflatable boat accessories. Polymarine cleaning, polishing and maintenance products have been created to deal with specific tasks and problems which occur in the marine environment. The Polymarine range performs with great effect, outshining all other marine products. Polymarine Dispel, Cleaner, Finish and Duo Clean for example have been created for RIB tubes and hulls, these are tremendously effective, almost legendary in the RIB market.

The complete list of guides and download sheets can be found on the
Polymarine.com / Advice Pages

We also provide an 'Inflatable Boat Repair Service' click here for details

Scroll down for quick overview here...

•  
  • Inflatable Boat Tube Fabrics  
  • Repairing Inflatable Tubes - Hypalon    
  • Repairing Inflatable Tubes - uPVC 
  • Fitting New Valves - Hypalon 
  • Fitting New Valves - uPVC
  • For Advice on Snap Davit & Pad Installations - click here

Inflatable Boat Tube Fabrics 
Hypalon and Neoprene Coatings (Synthetic Rubber Coatings):
Hypalon is a synthetic rubber material patented by DuPont. Hypalon has many applications in many industries and it has proven itself as a material with excellent air holding capabilities and oil resistance. Hypalon coated onto polyester or nylon fabric with an interior coating of neoprene a very reliable and durable inflatable boat fabric and can last for more than a decade even in the harshest environments - which is the reason for warranties of five and 10 years.

Hypalon Construction:
The seams in Hypalon boats are either overlapped or butted, and then glued. Butted seams produce an aesthetic, flat, airtight seam, without the ridge or air gaps left by some overlapped seams. However, butted seams are more labor-intensive, thus the boats are usually more expensive. It is always wise to look for an inflatable boat with seams that are double-taped, and are glued on both sides. In stress tests, Hypalon and neoprene glued seams are so strong and reliable that the fabric will fail before the seams.

uPVC (Plastic Coatings):
uPVC is a vinyl polymer chemically known as polyvinyl chloride. It has several applications in the leisure and construction industries. In the inflatable boat industry it is used as a coating on polyester or nylon to increase the strength and tear resistance. Because it is a type of plastic, it can be thermobonded or glued. This allows the manufacturer to mass produce boats on a large scale with machines and unskilled labour. uPVC coated fabrics come in a larger array of colours than Hypalon

uPVC Construction:
The seams of uPVC-coated inflatables can be fused together using several different welding techniques. Some manufacturers use either high heat pressure, radio frequencies (RF), or electronic welding. Large, specially developed welding machines must be used to fuse the fabric together. Again, this makes it easier and faster to produce uPVC-coated boats, especially over handcrafted Hypalon boats.

Are your Tubes uPVC or Hypalon?
If you looking to repair your tubes with patches or to replace any valves on your rigid hull inflatable boat or inflatable it's essential to know what fabric your inflatable sponsons are made from as it's very important to use the correct adhesive for the material.

There are two main types of material used in the manufacture of inflatable boat tubes.
1. Hypalon:- this is a rubber/neoprene material;
2. uPVC:- used in most production manufactured boats.

Test to Check
There are several tests to check.
A. If you can see the inside of the tube, through the valve, Hypalon is a dark grey or black on the inside. uPVC is the same colour on both sides.

B. Sand the material. Hypalon will matt down and produce a dust. uPVC will just scratch, There will be no difference in colour.

C. Wipe over lightly with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone - often available at hardware, paint or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for uPVC pipes or lacquer thinner) or Acetone. Hypalon will leave an oxidization and maybe some colour on the cloth. The material will not be affected. For uPVC you will have some colour on the cloth but, the surface of the material will feel tacky. It is important to use the correct solvent on this solvent test.

List of Known Boat Fabrics

HYPALON:
AB, ACHILLES, AQUAFLYTE, AVON, BALLISTIC, BEAUFORT, BRIG*, BWM, CALAGARI, CAMPARI, CARIBE, CHINOOK, COMPASS, DELTA, DOMINO, EUROCRAFT, FLATACRAFT, GOMMONAUTICA, GORDON, HENSHAWS, HUMBER, LOMAC, METZLER*, ML LIFEGUARD, NOVAJOLLY, NOVAMARINE, NOVURANIA, OSPREY, PICTON, RED BAY, REVENGER, RIBCRAFT, RIBTEC, RIB-X, RING, ROBCRAFT, SCANNER, SCORPION, SELVA, SEMPRIT, SELVA, STINGHER, TINKER, YAM RIBS, ZODIAC* (some pre 1968 leisure models - and their commercial range is probably Hypalon).

uPVC:
ARIMAR, BOMBARD, BRIG*, COMPASS II, EUROVINYL, EXCEL, HONDA, LODESTAR, MAXXON, METZLER*, NARWHAL, OMC EXPRESS, PLASTIMO, QUICKSILVER, RIBEYE*, SERIE, SEVYLOR, SUZUMAR, TOHATSU, TYPHOON, VALIANT* (some larger ribs are PU), WAVELINE, YAM, ZED, ZOOM, ZODIAC* (some pre 1968 leisure models).

POLYURETHANE (PU):
TORNADO, VALIANT* (larger commercial ribs)

Repairing Inflatable Tubes - Hypalon    

Repairing Patches:
Materials needed:-
P510 Hypalon solvent
2990 two part adhesive
Paint brush (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
Lint free cloth
Hypalon material
Sandpaper / emery cloth
Masking tape
Polythene
Knife handle or rounded piece of hardwood

IMPORTANT:
Before you start any glueing please note:- your workplace needs to be well ventilated, warm and dry. If the air is humid don't try to use the adhesive as it will bloom. Do not use a gas fire or naked flame heat source as the solvents are highly flammable. Do not use the adhesive if it has been mixed for more than 4 hours.

If the damage to your tube is more than 75mm in any direction an inside patch needs to be applied. The procedure is the same as for an Outside Patch but is made more difficult because you are working on the inside of the tube.

INSIDE PATCH
1. Mark out and cut your material to size. This should be big enough to cover the damage plus 30mm on every side. Make sure that all the corners are rounded.

2.. Sand down the surface on the patch and the inside of the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the back surface is sanded until the surface starts to break up and looks like suede. Wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the P510 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off. If you apply the adhesive to soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.

3. Mix half of the adhesive (2990 two part adhesive) as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.

4. Brush on a second coat of adhesive on both surfaces. Leave to dry for 15 minutes. With the inside patch lay a piece of polythene onto the adhesive, so it can be rolled up and put through the hole. Place inside the tube and put into position, remove polythene. Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Please note:- the adhesive is a contact type, as soon as it touches the other surface it will stick. Make sure that the patch is in the correct position before the surfaces come into contact.

5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.

6. When dry pump up the chamber and check for air leaks. The inside patch must be practically air tight.

OUTSIDE PATCH
7. Prepare the outside of the tube and your outside patch. Using the masking tape to tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch in the material.

8. Sand down the surface on the patch and the inside of the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the back surface is sanded until the surface starts to break up and looks like suede. Wipe with the solvent. Mix the rest of the adhesive. Apply first coat of adhesive,leave for 30 minutes, apply second coat of adhesive. Leave for 15 minutes.

9. Put down the patch and rub down from the centre out with your knife handle. Check that all the edges are stuck down. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Remove the tape and rub off any excess adhesive. If the adhesive is left on it will turn brown.

10.Leave to dry for at least six hours before putting pressure in the tube.

Repairing Inflatable Tubes - uPVC    

Repairing Patches:
Materials needed:-
2903 pvc primer and cleaner
3026 two part adhesive
Paint brush (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
Lint free cloth
Pvc material
Masking tape
Polythene
Knife handle or rounded piece of hardwood

IMPORTANT:
Before you start any glueing please note:- your workplace needs to be well ventilated, warm and dry. If the air is humid don't try to use the adhesive as it will bloom. Do not use a gas fire or naked flame heat source as the solvents are highly flammable. Do not use the adhesive if it has been mixed for more than 4 hours.

If the damage to your tube is more than 15mm in any direction an inside patch needs to be applied. The procedure is the same as for an Outside Patch but is made more difficult because you are working on the inside of the tube.

INSIDE PATCH
1. Mark out and cut your material to size. This should be big enough to cover the damage plus 30mm on every side. Make sure that all the corners are rounded.

2. Using your cloth wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the 2903 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off and wipe over again. The surface should become tacky. Allow to flash off. If you apply the adhesive too soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.

3. Mix half of the adhesive (3026 two part adhesive) as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.

4. Brush on a second coat of adhesive on both surfaces. With the inside patch lay a piece of polythene onto the adhesive, so it can be rolled up and put through the hole. Place inside the tube and put into position, remove polythene. Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Please note:- the adhesive is a contact type, as soon as it touches the other surface it will stick. Make sure that the patch is in the correct position before the surfaces come into contact.

5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.

6. When dry pump up the chamber and check for air leaks. The inside patch must be practically air tight.

OUTSIDE PATCH
7. Prepare the outside of the tube and your outside patch. Using the masking tape to tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch in the material.

8. Wipe with the solvent. second wipe the solvent. Mix the rest of the adhesive. Apply first coat of adhesive, leave for 30 minutes, apply second coat of adhesive.

9. Put down the patch and rub down from the centre out with your knife handle. Check that all the edges are stuck down. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Remove the tape and rub off any excess adhesive. If the adhesive is left on it will turn brown.

If the adhesive has flashed off so it's not sticking, gently warm the area with a hair drier or a hot air gun and push down with your knife handle.

Fitting New Valves - Hypalon    

Materials needed:-
Valve (s)
Valve spanner
Doubler
P510 hypalon solvent
2990 two part adhesive
Hypalon material
Replacement valve(s)
Paint brush (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
Lint free cloth
Polythenne
Masking tape
Hair drier or a hot air gun
Knife handle or rounded piece of hardwood

IMPORTANT:
Before you start any glueing please note:- your workplace needs to be well ventilated, warm and dry. If the air is humid don't try to use the adhesive as it will bloom. Do not use a gas fire or naked flame heat source as the solvents are highly flammable. Do not use the adhesive if it has been mixed for more than 4 hours.

1. Take out your old valve. If the valve is glued on then heat the area with a hair drier or a hot air gun. This softens the adhesive and allows you to lift the edge and peel the valve back. The old adhesive will need to be sanded off. Check that the valve body will fit through the hole, if not make the hole bigger. If the valve is screwed together, unscrew and the back of the valve will be left inside the tube. To get this out make the hole bigger.

2. Prepare the outside of the tube. Place the doubler in position and mark around it with a pencil. Using the masking tape, tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch on the material. Sand down the surface on the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the doubler is ready sanded. Wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the P510 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off. If you apply the adhesive too soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.

3. Mix enough adhesive as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.

4. Brush on a second coat on both surfaces. Lay a piece of polythene onto the tube adhesive. Put the cage of the valve into the tube and push to one side. Place the doubler into position making sure that the valve will sit squarely on the doubler, remove polythene. Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. Then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Take off tape and clean off any adhesive. The adhesive will turn brown if left on the surface.

If you are putting a valve into a RIB, assemble the valve with the doubler. Place into the hole and rub the fabric down. You will need to use your hand from the outside of the tube to support the fabris, so you can rub down hard enough

5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.

6. When dry pump up the chamber. Tighten the valve, it should be tightened to a max of 10lbs which is hand tight and just pinched up. Check for air leaks

Fitting New Valves - uPVC    

Materials needed:-
Valve(s)
Valve spanner
Doubler
2903 pvc primer and cleaner
3026 two part adhesive
Paint brush (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
Lint free cloth
Pvc material
Masking tape
Polythene
Knife handle or rounded piece of hardwood

IMPORTANT:
Before you start any glueing please note:- your workplace needs to be well ventilated, warm and dry. If the air is humid don't try to use the adhesive as it will bloom. Do not use a gas fire or naked flame heat source as the solvents are highly flammable. Do not use the adhesive if it has been mixed for more than 4 hours.

1. Take out your old valve. Unscrew the valve top. Check that the valve body will fit through the hole, if not make the hole bigger. If the valve is screwed together, unscrew and the back of the valve will be left inside the tube. To get this out make the hole bigger.

2. Place the doubler in position and mark around it with a pencil. Using the masking tape, tape around the pencil mark leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch in the material. Using your cloth wipe the surface of the doubler and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the 2903 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off and wipe over again. The surface should become tacky. Allow to flash off. If you apply the adhesive too soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.

3. Mix enough adhesive as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, on both the tube and the doubler. The surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.

4. Brush on a second coat on both surfaces. Lay a piece of polythene onto the tube adhesive. Put the cage of the valve into the tube and push to one side. Place the doubler into position making sure that the valve will sit squarely on the doubler, remove polythene. Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. Then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Take off tape and clean off any adhesive. The adhesive will turn brown if left on the surface. If you are putting a valve into a RIB, assemble the valve with the doubler. Place into the hole and rub the fabric down. You will need to use your hand from the outside of the tube to support the fabric, so you can rub down hard enough.

5. Put valve into position and hand tighten. Leave to dry for at least six hours.

6. When dry pump up the chamber. Tighten the valve, it should be tightened to a max of 10lbs which is hand tight and just pinched up. Check for air leaks.